Yes, I love tea and I really find the tea plant itself to be rather incredible. There are so many kinds of tea. So, how many species of tea plants are there? That’s what I find so appealing. There is really only one tea plant.*
The Chinese Camellia sinensis is a species of plant whose leaves and leaf buds are used to produce Chinese tea. White tea, green tea, oolong, pu-erh tea, and black tea are all harvested from this one species. There is also a kukicha (twig tea) that is harvested from that plant which uses twigs and stems rather than leaves.
So why all the different flavors?
Where the plant grows and the way the leaves and buds are processed changes the tea. (The plant is also referred to as the tea tree and tea shrub.) Maybe you have heard the term terroir which comes from the French word terre meaning “land”. Usually, the term is associated with wine, but it is also used with coffee and tea to denote the special characteristics that the geography, geology, and climate of a certain place bestow upon a plant.
I wrote here about the philosophy of wabi-sabi and how its practitioners were connected to the Japanese tea ceremony. When that simple ritual went from China to Japan, it became an ornate Japanese ritual and a way to show off wealth in the 15th century.
There was also a movement to the other extreme of simplicity. If understanding emptiness and imperfection is the first step to enlightenment, then the tea ceremony might be a way to understand that. Those who see tea as more than a drink and the tea ceremony as a way to foster harmony in humanity and with nature, and as a way to discipline the mind and quiet the heart, then see the art of tea as teaism.
Teaism is our Western term for chadao which comes from two words – the word for tea and the Chinese tao/dao. I like this word and the related “teamind”, which is that sense of focus and concentration one has while under the influence of good tea. I’d like to think that I am a Teaist.
I once attended an authentic tea ceremony, but my practice is largely solitary. A tea ceremony is a very ritualized form of making tea with particular tools, gestures, etc. It seemed to me to be much too artificial, abstract, and formal to fit in with what I saw as most attractive in Teaism. The Victorian-era “high tea” also seems that way too with its proper equipment, manners, and social snobbery.
The Book of Tea by Okakura Kakuzo was first published in 1906 and has since been republished many times and is the text that often starts people to learn something about Teaism. He covers how tea has affected Japanese culture, thought, and life. The book is meant as an introduction to Westerners. (It was written in English.) He emphasizes that Teaism teaches simplicity. I do not claim enough philosophical knowledge of Teaism to explain it to you. It is a synthesis of Taoism, Zen, and tea. Kakuzo says that the ceremony has “a subtle philosophy” behind it and that “Teaism was Taoism in disguise.”
In Tea Life, Tea Mind by Soshitsu Sen, he relates this story:
“Once a tea grower invited Rikyu to have tea. Overwhelmed with joy at Rikyu’s acceptance, the tea grower led him to his tearoom and served tea to Rikyu himself. However, in his excitement his hand trembled and he performed badly, drowning the tea scoop and knocking the tea whisk over. The other guests, disciples of Rikyu, snickered at the tea grower’s manner of making tea, but Rikyu was moved to say, “It is the finest.” On the way home, one of the disciples asked Rikyu, “Why were you so impressed by such a shameful performance?” Rikyu answered, “This man did not invite me with the idea of showing off his skill. He simply wanted to serve me tea with his whole heart. He devoted himself completely to making a bowl of tea for me, not worrying about errors. I was struck by that sincerity.”
So, tea may be much more than a drink. This is the way of tea.
* Okay, to get really technical, there are two major varieties of tea plants and variants that characterize this species and recently someone has come up with some hybrid, but still… On Amazon, a search for tea brings up 30,000 tea entries.